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Beijing Temple Fair

  • Photos Taken at the Changdian Temple Fair in Beijing, February 2007.

November in Ningxia

  • Photos taken on my trip to Yinchuan and Guyuan, November 2006.

Guyuan, China

  • Check it Out
    These are photos taken on my recent trip to Guyuan, Ningxia.

Cherry Blossom Festival

  • DSC_0062
    A park near my house had a cherry blossom festival today. I spent an hour or so there this afternoon with my camera. Enjoy.

Terra-cotta Warriors

  • Xian_2006_072_small
    Photos taken of the Terra-cotta Warriors, near Xi'an, China. These figures were cast and buried around 200BC, and were undiscoverd until 1974.

Saturday in the Park

  • Dsc_0034_small
    Photos taken in and around a Beijing park on an early spring Saturday.

Cambodia 2006

  • Looking Out to Sea
    Photos taken during my visit to Cambodia in January.

Kashgar

  • Double Wide Yurt
    An album of photos taken in and around Kashgar.

To Xanadu

  • Recitation
    A selection of photos taken on our trip from Beijing to Xanadu, October 4-6, 2005.

Neighborhood Stroll

  • Pensive Child
    This is an album of photos of various people and scenes that I pass daily as I walk or ride my bike between where I live and where I work.

National Day 2005

  • Catholic Church on Wangfujing
    These pictures were taken in an old "Hutong" section of Beijing, and on Beijing's main shopping street on National Day 2005 (October 1).
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September 26, 2007

A Mousecapade

For lunch today, I and some colleagues headed off to our favorite Hunan restaurant, across the street from our office.  It's a great place.  By noon the place was full, and we were busy stuffing ourselves with all manner of super spicy peppers (a characteristic of Hunan cuisine), when suddenly the patrons at a nearby table screamed and jumped away from the table.  Apparantly a mouse thought he was at an Olympic sporting event and decided to back flip into the soup.  He missed the soup, but I think he might have landed in the toufu, from where he scampered quickly to the floor.  Not fast enough, however to get away from the restaurant manager who grabbed him with a pair of chopsticks and marched off to the kitchen.  Naturally the diners at that table promptly left.  The rest of us just watched a bit, then went back to our peppers.  At our table we were a bit troubled that the mouse had been taken to the kitchen, and I must admit that we gave the next dish brought to our table some extra scrutiny. 

Only 320 more days until the Olympics! 

September 25, 2007

The Great Mooncake Exchange

It's Moon Festival today in China.  Below is an essay I wrote about it a couple of years back.  Time for it's annual re-publication.

Today is Zhong Qiu Jie, (lit. Mid-Autumn Festival) in China.  In colloquial terms, it's called the Moon Festival, because it's celebration coincides with the full moon.  Much like Thanksgiving in American culture, Moon Festival is a time when people want to gather with their family members.  If that isn't possible, then people gather with classmates, colleagues, and other friends to gaze at the moon and think of their distant family members who are also gazing at the same moon.  Poets in the Tang Dynasty were prolific in their writing poems about the moon, so there's always a poem to be recited at a gathering.

Another custom on Moon Festival is the eating of mooncakes.  It's hard to describe them exactly, but think of small, individually wrapped fruit-cakes.  There is an outer crust with a super sweet filling. Usually they are very heavy, and laden with sugar and lard.  Not being a fan of them, they sort of remind me of sweet hockey pucks. 

Making and eating and giving mooncakes has always been part of the celebration here, but as China's level of prosperity has increased in the past number of years, like many other things here, mooncakes have sort of become an excess.  In the weeks preceding Moon Festival, all the stores fill up with tables selling all manner of beautifully gift-wrapped mooncakes. They are elaborately packaged, and a 6 or 8 mooncakes in a beautiful box can easily cost 40 or 50 US dollars!  The more expensive the mooncakes you give, the more face both the giver and receiver get. 

Mooncakes must be sent to people with whom you do business. Clients send to suppliers, suppliers to clients.  Mooncakes are exchanged among colleagues.  Teachers give them to students; students to teachers. Friends to friends; family members to family members.  It's one giant mooncake exchange.

And as foreigners who are trying to live as acceptable outsiders, we join in.  Last night my professor and his family came to my house for dinner.  When they walked in, he gave me a nice gift box of mooncakes. I said thanks, took them, and set them in the kitchen (it's not polite to open gifts here in the presence of the giver).  When it was time for them to leave, I gave them a box of mooncakes.  We all  laughed at the fact that we were just exchanging boxes of mooncakes.  I always enjoy my professor because of his ability to see the humor in his own society.  He joked that at the end of the day, mooncakes don't really get eaten--they just get passed around, sometimes ending up back where they started.  I said never mind, and told him that he was more than welcome to give away the box I was giving them.  He said I could give away the box they gave me (which I plan to do).

Like many other things in a society like this that places a high value on ritual for the sake of ritual, the important thing is NOT the mooncake or the box or the value, but rather that the ritual of giving the mooncake is performed. 

Mooncakes, anyone?

And for your reading assignment, here is an article about the festival in a local newspaper:

Mooncakes Acquire a Networking Flavor
:    "Mooncakes, a traditional delicacy gifted to families and friends during the Mid-Autumn Festival, have become an important ingredient in maintaining business and work relations.  With the festival falling tomorrow, the reception areas of almost every office building are overflowing with boxes of mooncakes.  The traditional festival has become a Chinese Christmas of sorts, topping other occasions for giving or receiving gifts."



September 23, 2007

Conflicting Headlines

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't these two headlines in the local media seem to be at odds with each other:

8.5 Million Autos to be produced This Year

More Busses, Fewer Cars on 'Car-Free Day"

Just to be clear. Here in Beijing yesterday there seemed to be no evidence of it being "no car day."  In fact, the traffic was unusually heavy for a Sunday. 

JW

It seems that there is no end to the "just when you think you've seen/heard it all....." experiences one can accumulate in a city like Beijing.  Last night, as I was coming home from enjoying a wonderful foot massage with a friend at the end of a crazy busy day, I find myself in a cab with a driver who was a Jehovah's Witness!!!  Will somebody please tell me where I am!

September 13, 2007

More on Chinese Slogans

As a follow up to my post earlier this week on the ubiquitousness of the word harmony in China today, here's a good article that explores the role of slogans in political discourse here:  From struggle to harmony, China slogans mark Hu era - Yahoo! News.

September 12, 2007

Confucius and the Minnesota State Fair

I realize that I'm a little bit behind the curve here with a post about the Minnesota State Fair, the annual get-together for for us Minn-e-soooo-tans.  It ended last week, and since I'm on the other side of the planet from Minnesota, I saw no reason to comment on the event.   My friend in Shanghai, however, has written a column for That's Shanghai about the Fair, called The Midwest Way.  An excerpt:

Still, there is one Minnesotan tradition that shares much with China: the Minnesota State Fair. Like China, Minnesota’s agricultural history has shaped much of our personality and practices, and the Minnesota State Fair is our harvest celebration. Think of it as the Mid-Autumn Festival for the beige-food crowd, or spending a day on the Nanjing pedestrian street, but with more livestock. In any case, the State Fair can provide revelations of the same sort that Confucian masters experienced when observing life in China’s countryside. In short, it can show The Way. So in humble homage to the Analects, I here present 10 Life Lessons Learned at the Minnesota State Fair:.......

You really need to read the whole thing. 

As for this Minnesotan, she hates the State Fair.  Of course, it's important to remember that even though I am of Scandinavian descent  and have relatives in Minnesota, I am a transplant, not a native.  The last time I went to the fair was about 10 years ago.  I had a panic attack.  It was the crowds.  (Yes I, who live in CHINA, OF ALL PLACES, don't like crowds.) But it wasn't just the crowds.  It was the crowds of over-sized and under-clad bodies.  I still get clammy thinking about it. I just turned to my sister and said "we have to leave."  I have never been back.  I think the panic attack happened in the exhibition hall underneath the grandstand.  Where else?

September 11, 2007

Pai-Dui Day

Today was "Pai-dui Day" in Beijing. That's pronounced pie-dway, by the way.  In the ongoing effort to improve the manners of Beijingers in the run-up to the Olympics (now only 331 days away), the city government has decreed that the 11th of each month is a day to get people to stand in lines.  It started back in March, and I first wrote about it here. I've dubbed it "pai-dui day." On this day each month, hundreds of retirees are deputized (red arm bands of course) to patrol the bus stops, subway platforms, and other places where lines might contribute to a more harmonious society to wave their flags and blow their whistles and get people to line up.  Surprisingly, it seems to be working (at least for one day a month).

Last night as a colleague and I were boarding a train in a small town in Shandong province to return to Beijing, we encountered a platform officer who was taking her job of getting passengers to line up very very seriously.  About 5 minutes before the train pulled into the station, they allowed all the passengers onto the platform.  When the train came in, we'd have 5 minutes to get on before it rolled out again.  We asked where exactly car 8 might stop, and she waved us and a group of about 10 others down the platform, where we sort of milled around.  A few minutes later she came by barking orders at us to line up.  We half-heartedly complied, and then she started barking  YI PAI, YI PAI (one line; single file).  We all obeyed, and stood there at attention in a neat row.  Until the train pulled in.  Then, the door to carriage 8 stopped about 15 feet away and we quickly descended back into what my traveling companion called "a casserole".

Oh well, that was yesterday, which wasn't really pai-dui day anyway!

Harmony Alert

The new favorite word here in China the past year or so is "harmony," or some variation of it.  This is because it is the slogan of choice emanating from the upper reaches of the party.  Everything is harmony-this and harmony-that.  China is now in it's "4th generation" of leadership, and each generation has had it's slogan--something that encapsulated where China was heading.  The Great Helmsman was all about class struggle and building a "modern socialist society" (note: oxymoron alert).  His predecessor put forth the "Four Modernizations" as the national goal.  It should be noted that this has been a great success.  The third generation leader came up with something called "The Three Represents."  It was very abstract; so much so that it was difficult to find anyone who actually knew what it meant.  It was something about representing the advanced forces of society.  The current leadership has decided that the new national goal is to build a harmonious society. Somewhat harkening back to Confucianism, the thinking is that if we all will just be nice and get along, everything will be fine. 

An interesting feature of political discourse here is that when those on high put forth their latest slogans or buzzwords (as the case may be), everyone on down the political and societal food chain scrambles to find new ways to use and/or display the slogan.  It's a way of demonstrating "being on board."  This means that suddenly the word "harmony" and the phrase "harmonious society" are everywhere.   Whenever I give a speech or toast in a formal setting, you can bet that I sneak the word "harmony" in there somewhere!  It pops up in the most interesting of places!

Recently I and a colleague were in the Beijing Train Station on our way to catch an overnight train to Qufu (the hometown of Confucius, and thus ground zero of the harmonious campaign), when we spotted a very funny sign above one of the ticket windows.  There was a giant arrow pointing away from the ticket window and it said HARMONIOUS TICKET OFFICE LOCATED ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE STATION. A harmonious ticket office?  Go that way?  What was it saying about the ticket office that was located smack dab underneath the sign?  Not so harmonious? 

Truth be told, there's nothing harmonious about the Beijing train station.  Nothing.

Stay tuned for more "harmony alerts."

September 09, 2007

Don't Sleep in the Shade

Qinglongxia_039_small Last week the staff of the organization that I work with decamped for a couple of days for a "qiu-you" (fall trip) to Qing Long Gorge, a gorgeous reservoir/tourist area just north of Beijing.  One of the great things about this place is that there a few un-restored sections of the Great Wall.  It makes for great hiking.  One day a colleague and I took the chairlift up to the top of the mountain to get to a section.  Now there are few things in the world that I hate more than dangling 500 feet above ravines filled with thorn bushes and boulders the size of school buses.  But I closed my eyes, grabbed the bar, and breathed deeply for the 11 minutes of terror to get to the top.  Fortunately, I was rewarded by some fantastic views and some great hikes---downward, of course. 

We finally ended up in the shadow of a tower that was perched on the edge of a giant rock that jutted out over a cliff.  It seemed like a great place for us to sit down and enjoy the view.  We hadn't been there very long when a man wearing a little badge appeared and started chatting with us.  He too sought shelter in the shade of the tower.  His job was to go up and down the trail a few times a day making sure that people were being safe and staying out of the towers.  We had a nice chat, and learned a bit about the area.  After awhile, he took his leave and moved to another rock out in the sunshine. 

Awhile later, I decided to do the same, leaving my friend reading in the shade.  She must have gotten a bit tired, so just laid down on the rock, whereupon the following interesting conversation ensued between me and the man:

He (seeing my friend lie down):  Tell your friend not to sleep in the shade.
Me:  Come again!
He:  Tell you friend not to sleep in the shade.
Me (not comprehending why there might be a regulation forbidding her from sleeping in the shade):  Why shouldn't she sleep in the shade?
He:  It's not good for her health.
Me:  Huh?
He:  It's not good for her health.
Me:  In what way is it not good for her health to sleep in the shade?
He:  The cool mountain breezes will make her sick.
Me:  Really?
He:  Yes.
Friend (who was sort of listening in on this conversation):  Ask him if it's OK for me to  just read in the shade.
Me:  Is it OK if she is just reading, not sleeping?
He:  Yes, that's fine.  Reading in the shade is fine.  Sleeping in the shade is not.  If she wants to sleep, she should come out here on this rock in the sun.
Me:  Wait a minute!  I thought Chinese people were afraid of the sunshine and always prefer the shade.
He:  That's mostly to protect the skin.  But to protect your health, don't sleep in the shade!

He was very emphatic.  We thanked him for his concern, and promised that we wouldn't sleep in the shade.  Satisfied that these two foreigners would now be safe on the mountain, he took his leave and continued hiking up the mountain.  We continued to enjoy the view.
Qinglongxia_055copy_small

September 01, 2007

Rushing Aimlessly

Yesterday 3 friends and I did some hiking on Ling Shan (Spirit Mountain), a 2300 meter peak about 90 km west of Beijing.  It's actually the highest point in the municipal district of Beijing, so standing on the top offers some spectacular views.  It was a bit hazy yesterday, so I don't have any great photos of the scenery to put up with this post.  We hired a car/driver to take us to a "tourist site" at about 1500 meters, from where we started our ascent.  Now I have to confess here that we didn't hike all the way from there to the top.  We took a 20 minute chairlift ride to the lower peak, then hiked the rest of the way to the top.  This being China, a stone path had been built right up the side of the mountain.

Since it is a very out-of-the-way "scenic spot", it turned out to be a  target-rich environment for Chinglish signs.   China Mobile obviously has put up the money for the signs.  Enjoy!

Lingshan_078_small I can assure that we avoided all aimless rushing about in the mountains.  We did, however, spot a group of tourists with matching red hats who seemed to us to be aimlessly rushing about.









Lingshan_079_small Quite honestly, we really had not idea what this was about.  I think it's just a mis-placed modal (should). 










Lingshan_080_small Yesterday there wasn't such a great difference in temperature so we didn't have to pay attention to our clothes.










Thanks for the prompts, China Mobile!